y allthatscosplay:

Final Fantasy’s Gorgeous Vanille Oerba by YumiCosplay
For all of your cosplay, gaming, anime, comic con, and all-around nerd culture needs, visit All That’s Epic.
Be sure to follow us on Twitter and Submit us your cosplay photos!

allthatscosplay:

Final Fantasy’s Gorgeous Vanille Oerba by YumiCosplay

For all of your cosplay, gaming, anime, comic con, and all-around nerd culture needs, visit All That’s Epic.

Be sure to follow us on Twitter and Submit us your cosplay photos!

lisamariecosplay:

 Rule 63 Spy Bros.

Female!Hawkeye - Lisa Marie
Male!Black Widow - Chris
Photos - Lucy Saxon

yaexrae:

I’ve finally gotten enough sequins stuck to my Elsa bodice to feel confident in the way these thing look, so I’m now listing bundles of my custom-made sequins on Etsy.  I’ve already posted a lot of information on how I made these and where to get the materials, but if you’d like them without importing sequin film or buying a computerized paper cutter, they can be yours!

Click here to visit my shop!

damilyn:

"All men have limits. They learn what they are and learn not to exceed them. I ignore mine."

New photos of fem!Batman from Alyssa Rohler! I love these shots, and I’m so glad I got photos of me out of that god-damn cowl. So uncomfortable. 

Cosplayer is me (Facebook
Cowl by Gotham City FX
Cosplay made by me and Michelle Nordahl. 

marvelentertainment:

Meet Marvel comics’ new Thor - she’s not what you’d expect! 

Learn more & see some exclusive art from the upcoming comics serieshttp://bit.ly/1ymF6LN

——

Marvel is excited to announce an all-new era for the God of Thunder in brand new series, THORwritten by Jason Aaron (Thor: God of ThunderOriginal Sin) complimented with art from Russell Dauterman (Cyclops).

This October, Marvel Comics evolves once again in one of the most shocking and exciting changes ever to shake one of Marvel’s “big three” – Captain American, Iron Man and Thor – Marvel Comics will be introducing an all-new THOR, GOD OF THUNDER. No longer is the classic male hero able to hold the mighty hammer, Mjölnir, a brand new female hero will emerge will who will be worthy of the name THOR. Who is she? Where did she come from and what is her connection to Asgard and the Marvel Universe?

“The inscription on Thor’s hammer reads ‘Whosoever holds this hammer, if HE be worthy, shall possess the power of Thor.’ Well it’s time to update that inscription,” says Marvel editor Wil Moss. “The new Thor continues Marvel’s proud tradition of strong female characters like Captain Marvel, Storm, Black Widow and more. And this new Thor isn’t a temporary female substitute - she’s now the one and only Thor, and she is worthy!”

samhawke:

How To Turn Craft Foam Into Leather

(Or not really but close enough. Also a side order of armour.)

I picked up this technique from this tutorial years ago, then adapted it further. You can use it to imitate leather, and with a few changes also to make thin armour parts, such as Vincent Valentine’s gauntlet as in the last picture. It won’t really work for thicker armour; there are plenty of tutorials on how to make EVA foam armour to be found online.

Back to fakey leather; you need the standard 2mm craft foam/fun foam/EVA foam/foam of many names, white glue, a brush, shoe polish, mod podge/podgy glue and a sponge.

You want to have most of the shaping and decorating done before you start. For example, for Athos’ pauldron I had already glued the three layers of the main piece and the fleur de lis shield together (UHU glue works well, all purpose glue is also okay), but had left the two upper strips and the straps separate to be attached after everything was done.

It is also easiest to do any embossing when the pieces are still flat. Foam won’t take an awful lot of detail, but with some patience the results can work quite well. You can use paper embossing tools for this, but make sure that the point isn’t too sharp or it will tear the foam. The back of a knife also works. My favourite tool for it so far is actually a letter opener. Drag across the foam for the first shallow line (it will spring back a bit) and repeat as many times as necessary without cutting the foam.

One layer of craft foam isn’t very strong by itself, so you either want to have at least two layers glued together or a single layer backed with fabric. If the final result includes stitching, definitely attach fabric or the thread may pull right through the foam. Cover the back of the foam piece with white glue, then smooth fabric onto it. Use cotton or linen (not synthetics), so that the glue can come through the fabric. When it is dry, cut the fabric along the edges of the foam, then brush another layer of white glue on the fabric. This makes sure that the fabric is firmly stuck and that the edges won’t fray.

(If you want to imitate metal armour, dilute the white glue a bit with water for the first couple of layers covering the whole piece; the fabric backing as well as the front and sides of the foam. This allows the glue to saturate the foam. Follow that with a few layers of undiluted glue, letting it dry in between layers until it’s stiff enough. The end result can be spray painted.)

Most importantly, when you glue layers of foam or foam and fabric together make sure that it dries in the shape it’s supposed to be. For Athos’ vambrace I wrapped a towel around a bottle to have something roughly the shape of my upper arm and then tied the pauldron around it while the glue between the layers was drying. Once it is dry, it will hold its shape. You do not need to heat the foam to do this! Heating it is inadvisable since foam is somewhat toxic. Foam is also a little stretchy, so you can carefully stretch it for an extra curve. Glueing fabric to it will help it hold its shape.

This is the point where I added battle damage to Athos’ pauldron by cutting grooves out of the top layer of foam with a stanley knife. The knife needs to be very sharp to prevent ragged edges, so use a new blade.

Now for actually making it look like leather! Rub several layers of shoe polish onto the foam, letting it dry between layers. The resulting colour depends on the colour of the foam and the polish. Use black foam and brown polish for dark brown ‘leather’, white or grey foam for lighter shades and so on (the Gondorian vambrace in the picture before last was made using white foam for the top layer and black foam for the bottom layer).

Then use a sponge to brush a layer of mod podge onto it. Mod podge is a glue varnish used for decoupage and is water resistant when it is dry. Two or three layers will do, and for a smooth finish dilute the mod podge with a little water for the last layer. Leave it to dry thoroughly. It will remain a little tacky, which can be solved by smoothing a little talcum powder onto the surface carefully. This also removes a bit of the shine, for a slightly more worn look.

Finally, assemble the piece, sew the bits that have to be sewn, paint decoration etc. As a general tip, if you want to make an object that looks like leather, treat it like leather! Add stitching, add metal grommets and so on. That goes a long way in making it look convincing.

"When you go to a convention in the first costume you ever make yourself, there will be a 100% chance of a more experienced cosplayer in the same cosplay. And you will want to throw yours away. Don’t do it."

 Seerofsarcasm Cosplay (via cosplayinamerica)

Working With Stretchy Fabrics: Latex, Vinyl/PVC, Spandex, and Stretch Cotton

cosplaying-on-a-budget:

A lot of questions I’ve gotten lately keep coming back to stretchy fabrics and how to work with them. This is a quick overview of some of the common stretchy materials used for costuming and tip on how to work with them.

Useful Tips

The important thing to remember is that all of the materials come in weights/thicknesses. The thicker the weight the more support it will give you. If you have a thick enough material you can forgo spanx or a body shaper( I love those things they give such nice support and create lovely silhouettes no mater what your size is).  

Be sure to get four-way stretch material. Two-way stretch is not the best option if you are looking to make a bodysuit of some kind. Also, try and find a cheap material in the same thickness and stretchiness of the desired material you plan to work with. This can be used  to make a mock up/ tester of your pattern. Once Latex is set or vinyl is sewn it can’t be undone or altered without risk of messing up your material.

Kwiksew has several dancewear patterns that are usefull for modifying into superhero suits or sailor scout suits. Here is a wonderful leotard pattern to work as the spring board for many different costumes: LEOTARD PATTERN

Also, make sure you get some fabric tape to help hold parts of your costume together while sewing. This is especially useful when putting in a zipper while sewing a slippery stretchy material or making something like gloves. To be honest, I use this to help put in zippers even when I’m working with non-stretchy material. This is the kind I use:

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A few notes about Latex

It is very difficult to work with.You don’t actually sew  latex, there is a weird fusion process that is used to connect pieces (basically you glue it). It takes time to set so you can’t really try it on for a fitting without waiting a day.Please be aware that it does not breath at all! You will sweat while you ware it and that sweat will have no where to go, so is just puddles in your shoes.  Price wise you are looking at around $10-20 a yard depending on the thickness of the material.

Here is a super awesome website about making latex clothing and has some helpful tutorials that cover everything form latex care to crafting your own clothing: LINK

Also this is a link to a suppler in the US who also offers workshops on making latex clothing:LINK

Vinyl/PVC

Vinyl/PVC is similar in price and can even be a little cheaper.The good news is it can be sewn! 

MJThreads,com is a suppler of both vinyl/pvc and latex. Here is a link to one of their video of how to work with vinyl/pvc and get your presser foot on your sewing machine to glide across the fabric: LINK

Spandex

Spandex is one of the more affordable option, it averages around $10 a yard cost wise. Also, It will breath and it does come in a multitude of colors and isn’t as difficult to work with as latex or vinyl. 

Here is some useful tips for working with Spandex: LINK

Spandex World comes highly recommended and  they carry a lot of unusual styles of spandex too: LINK

Stretch Cotton

Stretch Cotton is probable the most affordable of all these options. It’s available at most fabric stores and if you are having trouble finding the right shade you can dye it easily.

This is one of the most helpful video tutorial I’ve seen explaining how to work with stretchy fabric, especially if you don’t have a serger: LINK

tumblingmagpie:

I’ve put all of the fabric painting tutorials into one big photo post.

Includes silk painting with resist (Elven Banner), free-hand painting on stretch fabrics (Jareth from Labyrinth), fake embroidery with puffy paint (Peter of Narnia), graphite transfer paper with fabric paint pens (Tali from Mass Effect) and regular Tulip fabric paint (TARDIS lab coat).

Maybe this format is better?

y Party Scouts show up to fight the Negaverse 15 minutes late with Starbucks. 
Artful Anarchy and lady bros at AX 2014
Facebook: xXXXxInstagram: artfulanarchy

Party Scouts show up to fight the Negaverse 15 minutes late with Starbucks. 

Artful Anarchy and lady bros at AX 2014

Facebook: xXXXx
Instagram: artfulanarchy

y Artful Anarchy’s Jessica Rabbit at Anime Expo 2014!
Our facebook: xXXXx Instagram: artfulanarchy
Photo by Sonny Meas Photography 

Artful Anarchy’s Jessica Rabbit at Anime Expo 2014!

Our facebook: xXXXx 
Instagram: artfulanarchy

Photo by Sonny Meas Photography 

mayhem-and-madness:

When you first put on your cosplay:

image

By the end of the day:

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